A heritage walk in old Delhi evokes all kinds of response one can think of: nostalgia for lost glory; hunger for authentic food; and wonder at the systematic chaos that is the old city, sometimes combined with a feeling of impending doom! Our heritage trail this Sunday morning walk was a mixture of all of this. We start our walking tour at Digamber Jain Lal Mandir, the one famous for its bird hospital. With Red Fort forming the backdrop, we follow the main street of Chandni Chowk right up to the Sisganj gurudwara. On the way is Gauri Shankar temple, SBI buiding, Dariba Kalan and its famous jalebi shop, Central Baptish Church. The fountain chowk where Sisganj stands has much more to it: it marks the spot where Guru Teg Bahadur’s followers were tortured and killed and there is a museum dedicated to their memory. The chowk also has the Sunehri Masjid where the notorious raider Nadir Shah stood to watch the massacre of citizens of Delhi. The Ghantewala Shahi halwai was originally located at the chowk. We leave the main street at Parathewali Gali and entre the lane famous for its shops selling stuffed fried bread (parathas).Gali Parathewali leads into the Kinari Bazaar, know for trade in laces and embellishments of all kinds. One of the kuchas of Kinari Bazaar has the Naughara, a group of havelis which still retain their traditional appearance. Back on the Chandni Chowk, our next stop was the Town Hall. Further ahead is Katra Neel, the area famous for its cloth. Katra Neel also had numerous temples dedicated to Lord Shiva (shivalayas). At the end of the Chandni Chowk is the Fatehpuri Masjid, one of the best places to visit in old Delhi. As we enter the courtyard, we instantly feel the start contrast from the rest of the city. It is amazingly quite in the mosque and the crowd and noise of the street outside seem distant. The mosque has a pleasing atmosphere which welcomes all. The last stop for our heritage walk was Gadodia Market in Khari Baoli. A warehouse for spices, it is located in the heart of the famous spice market. The air is thick with spices which, frankly, can be overwhelming. But it offers one of the most spectacular views of old Delhi: one can see down the Chandni Chowk, as far as the Red Fort and Jama Masjid, the old Delhi railway station, the courtyard of Fatehpuri Mosque and the Kashmiri Gate metro station…a fitting finale indeed!