Chandni Chowk or ‘moonlight square’ is the main thoroughfare in old Delhi. So much so, that the name is sometimes used synonymously with purani dilli or for the entire old city. The heritage walk in Chandni Chowk starts from the Digamber Jain Lal Mandir, the oldest Jain temple here. The shrine is contemporary to Shahjahan’s time but most of the temple building dates to mid-18^th century. Right next to it is the Gauri Shankar temple, which was a small shrine to start with, in the 18^th century, but now is one of the most prominent landmarks in the area. On the other side of the road are flower shops selling dhatura (a poisonous weed) and bel (fruit with a hard outer shell) which are especially offered to Lord Shiva. Next stop was the SBI building built in typically colonial style, with its Romanesque columns, doors with fanlights and semi circular arches with prominent keystone. Nearby is the Central Baptist church, one of the older churches in Delhi, built just after 1857. Continue Reading This Post

The old city never rests…no matter how early one lands there…it is buzzing with activity. We timed this heritage walk a little earlier than usual hoping to escape the heat and the noise but the city beat us to it, yet again! The Digamber Jain Lal Mandir was the starting point. It is the oldest Jain shrine here and is unique for having a charitable bird hospital in its premises. Adjacent to it is the Gauri Shankar temple, a very important shrine for the Hindus dedicated to Lord Shiva. There are a number of people selling dhatura (a poisonous weed) which is particularly offered to Shiva. Across the road are more shops selling flowers. A little ahead is the Peare Lal building, an example of colonial architecture. There are similar buildings all along the Chandni Chowk.

Food was top most on all our minds as we explored the area. Continue Reading This Post

A group of students from Denmark on their first trip to India joined us for a heritage walk in old Delhi on Sunday evening. The old city of Delhi is the capital built by the Mughal emperor Shahjahan, who named the new capital after himself, Shahjahanabad. The Red Fort was his palace-fort complex and Jama Masjid the congregation mosque of the city.

We wandered through the narrow lanes of old Delhi: looking at the haveli facades in Katra Khushal Rai, the Digamber Jain Naya Mandir, Naughara, Parathewali Gali. The havelis and Jain temples in the city have a typical late-Mughal aesthetic style: the arches, the life-like representation of flowers, etc, patronised by Shahjahan and used extensively after him. Naughara is a group of havelis (mansions) which still retain much of their traditional appearance.

Next on the route was the main street of Chandni Chowk, Continue Reading This Post

We covered the main street of Chandni Chowk, from Digambar Jain Lal Mandir opposite Red Fort right up till the Fatehpuri area. The Jain temple and Gauri Shankar temple are the two most important temples in old Delhi. Their shikhars are most prominently visible from a distance. The first one is contemporary to Shah Jahan’s time (mid 17^th century) and the second was built in 18^th century. Next stop was SBI building which has recently undergone restoration. This entire area would originally have been Begam Samroo’s estate. It is now called Bhagirath Place & is a very large market for electronic goods. Close by is the Central Baptist Church built just after 1857 uprising. On the opposite side are the famous jalebiwala and Dariba Kalan, the street known for its silver jewellery. Next was Sisganj gurudwara, the fountain chowk and Sunheri masjid. The fountain & sisganj gurudwara mark the place of martyrdom of Guru Teg Bahadur & 3 of his followers. Continue Reading This Post