This year’s Christmas was unusual for Lodi Garden, it being packed with people. The weather was excellent, and the entire population of Delhi seemed to have come out to picnic at Lodi Garden! For a change, we weren’t the only ones exploring the ruins. Our joy in walking around these ruins was shared by children, screaming on top of their lungs and playing around these medieval tombs! Muhammad Shah Sayyid’s tomb was the first stop on our heritage walk. The tomb stands out an object of beauty among the tree lined lawn. This tomb has recently undergone conservation. From here it is a short walk to the butterfly conservatory and the Bada Gumbad complex in the centre of Lodi Garden. The mosque here is one of the most beautiful specimens of plaster decoration, in Delhi. There are intricate arabesque patterns and calligraphy all over the interiors. Opposite to it stands the Shish Gumbad, with prominent blue tiles. The next stop on this heritage trail was Sikander Lodi’s tomb, which resembles a mini-fortress. Perhaps, appropriate for a sultan, whose name is Arabic for ‘Alexander’! Besides the Lodi tombs in this park there are a few Mughal monuments as well. Continue Reading This Post

Hauz Khas is one of the historic neighbourhoods in Delhi. The locality gets its name from the reservoir, Hauz i Alai, built by Alauddin Khalji for his capital city of Siri. About 50 years after Alauddin Khalji, Firuz Shah Tughluq restored the dried-up tank, built his own tomb and madrasa along its edge and called it Hauz Khas or ‘royal tank’. The madrasa complex is impressive even after more than 6 centuries. The tank, in a much altered state, still holds some water. The complex has remains of assembly halls, small-cell like rooms, a mosque and several tombs which probably of prominent members of the madrasa. Firuz Shah’s tomb stands at the junction of the 2 wings of the madrasa. Parts of the monument complex, including Firuz Shah’s tomb is currently undergoing restoration work by Archaeological Survey of India. This heritage walk covers monuments in Hauz Khas village and the adjacent Deer Park. There are 3 prominent monuments in the Deer Park: Lodi period tomb called Bagh i Alam ka Gumbad, and two Tughluq period tombs, the Kali Gumti and the Tuhfewala gumbad. Bagh i Alam ka Gumbad is much like the Lodi tombs in Lodi Garden. Continue Reading This Post

It always feels great to return in my dilli…purani wali 🙂 Winter has set in hence the walk timings have shifted from 7:30 in the morning to 10 am. The chill still remains but with tinge of sun rays it becomes best of weathers’ to walk around.

Chandni chowk- the axis in the city of Shahjahanabad with hustle bustle around the 1500 uniformly built shops is trying to retain the old charms. The city has seen many changes, most notably in 1857 & 1947. The people who made city may no longer be there…but their essence can be soaked through the remains of fragments left around. Our walk starts opposite Red Fort, from the famous Digamber Jain Lal Mandir. We walk along the main street in old Delhi, looking at its major landmarks: places of worship being the most notable (Gauri Shankar mandir, Digamber Jain Lal Mandir, Sisganj gurudwara, Sunheri Masjid). The shivalayas in the Katra Neel (commercial area for the Indigo merchants) is an apt example of how temples were built inside the courtyard of houses and the architecture is very similar to that of the Fatehpuri mosque at the end of Chandni Chowk. Continue Reading This Post

The ruins in Hauz Khas village are among the most fascinating in Delhi. The neighbourhood gets its name from the reservoir, ‘hauz i alai’ built by Sultan Alauddin Khalji in early 14^th century, for his capital city of Siri. About 50 year after Khalji, Sultan Firuz Shah Tughluq restored the silted up tank, built a madrasa along its edge and called it the ‘hauz khas’. The massive madrasa complex along the lake was among the most important in the Islamic world in the 14^th century. A contemporary poet wrote in its praise:

The courtyard was soul-animating, and its expanse was life-giving. Its dusk was musk-scented, and its fragrance possessed the odour of amber…Nightingales, so to say, were singing their melodious songs everywhere. It appeared, as if they had guitars in their talons and flutes in their beaks.

Today, the view is equally grand. Continue Reading This Post

A heritage walk in old Delhi is always exciting: the noise, the colourful sights & the delicious smells of food being prepared, adding to the general enthusiasm of visitors & locals alike. This Sunday, seemed a little less crowded than usual. Of course the shrines like the Digamber Jain Lal Mandir, the Sish ganj gurudwara and Gauri Shankar temple were bustling with activity. In contrast, the Fatehpuri Masjid at the end of Chandni Chowk is remarkably peaceful. We started our heritage walk at Digamber Jain Lal Mandir. This walk covers interesting points along the main street of old Delhi, the Chandni Chowk. A few places where we venture into a narrow lanes of the city: the Parathewali Gali, the Moti Bazaar, Katra Neel and perhaps the highlight of the walk, the spice market. On the way are the some of the most famous stalls of street food in old Delhi: well known shops like Ghantewala, Tiwari Brothers, Paratha shops, Chaina Ram, Old & Famous Jalebiwala and smaller but equally well known players like kulfiwala at Nai Sarak, Natraj for their dahi bhalle, faluda at Fatehpuri and many more. There are a few specialized bazaars on the old Delhi trail: Continue Reading This Post