Nicholson’s Cemetery, near Kashmiri Gate ISBT, was the starting point of the walk. One is greeted by deafening noise of the traffic at the bus stand and the chattering of monkeys as one approaches the entrance. Both are a permanent feature. We looked at British officer John Nicholson’s grave and that of Master Ramchandra of Delhi College. Nicholson’ Cemetery is in a much better condition than the Lothian Road cemetery. The latter is completely neglected; never mind ASI’s notice proclaiming it to be a protected site. The boundary walls of the old city of Delhi, Shahjahanabad can be seen adjacent to the Kashmiri Gate metro station. Some restoration work seems to on at Kashmiri Gate itself. Continue Reading This Post

Another great day for a walking tour. The excavations near Balban’s tomb seem to be over, couldn’t see any work going on. Everyone was amazed by the fact that Mehrauli’s ruins constitute the most ancient settlements in Delhi. The 17^th century settlement near Jamali’s mosque fascinated everybody; tiny yet, double storey rooms, the arched niches on walls. Another source of amusement was the stairs in these medieval monuments. They are extremely steep, narrow and those leading to roofs of buildings have such tiny access, like the one in Metcalfe’s Dilkusha. One wonders how people who built magnificent palaces and forts could manage with such awful stairs. In contrast, the steps down to the baoli offer an amazing view. Rajon in baoli is now completely dried up. So is the storm water drain nearby. We walked back, past the Jamali Kamali mosque to Khan Shaheed’s tomb and saw some people offering prayers there. They were people from the Delhi Wakf which is located nearby.

(posted by Rajesh Ranjan & Kanika Singh, team members, Delhi Heritage Walks)

Mehrauli Archaeological Park Heritage Walk

We reached a little early and did some exploring of our own. Luckily we found the bonsai garden open. It is a neat little place. There is some information about the bonsai on panels at the entrance. Still, would be helpful if the displayed bonsai too had labels on them. Conservation work on Mohammad Shah’s tomb is over and it looks almost cute now that it is pink all over! One is so used to the ruins looking grey (which gives the impression of age) that the pink is rather hard to accept. But I guess cleaning work will give the plaster and the mortar a light colour. Also, it regains its grey look in a few weeks’ time. Same is the case at the Bara Gumbad. The mosque looked as lovely as ever except, that 2 of its domes were pink in colour & the 3rd was as black as soot. Almost like BEFORE & AFTER…in our advertisements! J We next looked at the Sish Gumbad and walked towards Sikandar Lodi’s tomb. We just managed to get in, as the guards were closing the gates to the tomb. (All ASI protected monuments open from sunrise to sunset). Continue Reading This Post

It is difficult to imagine a world of medieval monuments just beyond the glamour of boutiques, art galleries and restaurants in Hauz Khas village. The hauz (tank) and the 14^th century madrasa are a grand sight even as ruins. Fine examples of Tughlaq architecture, these buildings impress a visitor with their strength. They are simple massive & very austere; thick, sloping walls, massive stone beams and pillars. One of the visitors could not help wondering if they (the residents) were expecting an invasion! The madrasa complex is a double-storied structure with colonnaded halls on the top floor and small cell-like rooms on the lower storey. It is an L-shaped complex, on an edge of the Hauz and Firuz Shah Tughlaq’s tomb is built at the meeting point of the two wings. The tomb is not heavily decorated but it is a massive building. The interior has beautiful plaster work decoration. There are a couple of monuments is the deer park as well, the Kali Gumti and Bagh-i-Alam ka Gumbad. The second is a typical Lodi period tomb, very similar to the ones in Lodi Garden. A combination of ruins among trees, wild shrubs, birds makes a very picturesque view.

(posted by Rajesh Ranjan & Kanika Singh, team members, Delhi Heritage Walks)

Hauz Khas Heritage Walk

With a great group to interact with, this heritage walk was a lot of fun. Here are the pics of the walk. We had 2 very young kids as guests. Check out their photograph.

And as always is the case with Mehrauli Archaeological Park, most managed to get lost on their way here. This happens without fail. People are always somewhere around the place but it takes a while to get to the Park. The signage is a wreck, this time we found it dumped upside down in a ditch along the main road. A little maintenance by civic authorities & less vandalism by locals would go a long way in preserving Mehrauli’s heritage. The Park’s diversity never ceases to amaze. Almost a thousand years of history, incredible stories about characters associated with these ruins & great views. The earliest surviving building in India which uses the true arch (Balban’s tomb), the beautiful tomb complex of Jamali, follies by Metcalfe, tomb converted into a pleasure retreat (Dilkusha) & dovecot converted into a boathouse, baoli of masons… this Park has it all.

(posted by Kanika Singh & Rajesh Ranjan, team members, Delhi Heritage Walks)

Mehrauli Village Heritage Walk