The Chandni Chowk heritage walk was unusual this weekend…due to Independence day security measures the previous week, we held the walk in the following weekend, an in evening. We were always apprehensive of the notorious crowds and chaos of the bazaar!!!!!!!…still went ahead taking it as a challenge and also, to savour old Delhi in it’s true colors.

The city of Shahjahanabad was built in mid 17th century with Red fort as the king’s palace and Chandni Chowk laid specially for Shah Jahan’s daughter, Jahanara, who was very fond of jewellery! There were also gardens laid in her name in the centre of baazar where currently the Town Hall and Old Delhi Railway Station stand…It’s the month of Ramzan, and we were close to the time of iftaar as we passed by several food shops filled with people… Parathewali gali, pakoras all along the way, sweets of shapes and sizes, dates…

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Our Chandni Chowk heritage walk starts at the historic Shri Digambar Jain temple, opposite Red Fort. The foundation of the temple dates back to 1656. Gauri Shankar temple, which is next to Jain temple, was built in the middle of 18th century by a Maratha courtier of the Scindias. Both temples, though they are more than 200 years old, have modern building structures and it is difficult to imagine what they once looked like.

The next stop was the almost decrepit Fort View Hotel building, one of the first to be allowed to be built by the British in the area after the 1857 demolitions. Next to it is the State Bank of India office, an early 20th century structure undergoing renovation. It’s often mistaken as Begum Samroo’s palace. We took a detour inside the Bhagirath Place, to see the remains of Begum Samroo’s haveli, inside the market. Bhagirath Place is now one of the largest markets of electronic goods. Continue Reading This Post

It always feels great to return in my dilli…purani wali 🙂 Winter has set in hence the walk timings have shifted from 7:30 in the morning to 10 am. The chill still remains but with tinge of sun rays it becomes best of weathers’ to walk around.

Chandni chowk- the axis in the city of Shahjahanabad with hustle bustle around the 1500 uniformly built shops is trying to retain the old charms. The city has seen many changes, most notably in 1857 & 1947. The people who made city may no longer be there…but their essence can be soaked through the remains of fragments left around. Our walk starts opposite Red Fort, from the famous Digamber Jain Lal Mandir. We walk along the main street in old Delhi, looking at its major landmarks: places of worship being the most notable (Gauri Shankar mandir, Digamber Jain Lal Mandir, Sisganj gurudwara, Sunheri Masjid). The shivalayas in the Katra Neel (commercial area for the Indigo merchants) is an apt example of how temples were built inside the courtyard of houses and the architecture is very similar to that of the Fatehpuri mosque at the end of Chandni Chowk. Continue Reading This Post

A heritage walk in old Delhi is always exciting: the noise, the colourful sights & the delicious smells of food being prepared, adding to the general enthusiasm of visitors & locals alike. This Sunday, seemed a little less crowded than usual. Of course the shrines like the Digamber Jain Lal Mandir, the Sish ganj gurudwara and Gauri Shankar temple were bustling with activity. In contrast, the Fatehpuri Masjid at the end of Chandni Chowk is remarkably peaceful. We started our heritage walk at Digamber Jain Lal Mandir. This walk covers interesting points along the main street of old Delhi, the Chandni Chowk. A few places where we venture into a narrow lanes of the city: the Parathewali Gali, the Moti Bazaar, Katra Neel and perhaps the highlight of the walk, the spice market. On the way are the some of the most famous stalls of street food in old Delhi: well known shops like Ghantewala, Tiwari Brothers, Paratha shops, Chaina Ram, Old & Famous Jalebiwala and smaller but equally well known players like kulfiwala at Nai Sarak, Natraj for their dahi bhalle, faluda at Fatehpuri and many more. There are a few specialized bazaars on the old Delhi trail: Continue Reading This Post

Chandni chowk, is like a second home to me. Yet every time one visits the old city there’s a freshness to it. 29^th was last of the Sundays’ that August could offer to us and it was like cherry on the cake when it’s designed for a visit to Chandni Chowk. A bunch of 11 people, some our regulars, others new, looked get-set-go for the walk. Walk started with Digambar Jain Lal Mandir followed by Gauri Shankar temple. Being a bunch of enthusiasts everyone wished to visit inside each of these places. However in a 2 hrs heritage walk it becomes difficult to do so. Still there were quite a few places we managed to explore. I tried to give maximum facts and details about the same. The group already looked very keen to know more as a lot of questions were being asked about the history of these landmarks.

This time, I decided to also focus on by-lanes of Chandni Chowk by by discussing various wholesale markets one can visit to on weekdays including for bicycles, electronics, spectacles, camera, saris etc. Continue Reading This Post