What we call purani dilli or old Delhi today was the capital city of Shajahanabad in the middle of 17^th century. The Mughal Emperor built the Red Fort as his palace complex and the city as his capital. For them, the Mehrauli area would have been ‘old Delhi’. This heritage walk starts from the Digambar Jain Lal Mandir, opposite Red Fort. It is the oldest Jain temple in the city and a charitable bird hospital functions in its premises. The shrine is contemporary to Shahjahan’s time but the building we see now is mostly from middle of 19^th century. Adjacent to it is the Gauri Shankar temple, a large white building. It is an early 18^th century temple built by a Maratha nobleman. Walking along the Chandni Chowk we passed the State Bank of India building, one of the better surviving colonial buildings and the Central Baptish Church, a church built just after 1857. This entire stretch would have been the estate of a lady popularly known as Begum Samroo. She is one of the characters in Indian history who have many romantic or otherwise stories associated with her. Continue Reading This Post

Chandni Chowk or ‘moonlight square’ is the main thoroughfare in old Delhi. So much so, that the name is sometimes used synonymously with purani dilli or for the entire old city. The heritage walk in Chandni Chowk starts from the Digamber Jain Lal Mandir, the oldest Jain temple here. The shrine is contemporary to Shahjahan’s time but most of the temple building dates to mid-18^th century. Right next to it is the Gauri Shankar temple, which was a small shrine to start with, in the 18^th century, but now is one of the most prominent landmarks in the area. On the other side of the road are flower shops selling dhatura (a poisonous weed) and bel (fruit with a hard outer shell) which are especially offered to Lord Shiva. Next stop was the SBI building built in typically colonial style, with its Romanesque columns, doors with fanlights and semi circular arches with prominent keystone. Nearby is the Central Baptist church, one of the older churches in Delhi, built just after 1857. Continue Reading This Post

The old city never rests…no matter how early one lands there…it is buzzing with activity. We timed this heritage walk a little earlier than usual hoping to escape the heat and the noise but the city beat us to it, yet again! The Digamber Jain Lal Mandir was the starting point. It is the oldest Jain shrine here and is unique for having a charitable bird hospital in its premises. Adjacent to it is the Gauri Shankar temple, a very important shrine for the Hindus dedicated to Lord Shiva. There are a number of people selling dhatura (a poisonous weed) which is particularly offered to Shiva. Across the road are more shops selling flowers. A little ahead is the Peare Lal building, an example of colonial architecture. There are similar buildings all along the Chandni Chowk.

Food was top most on all our minds as we explored the area. Continue Reading This Post

We covered the main street of Chandni Chowk, from Digambar Jain Lal Mandir opposite Red Fort right up till the Fatehpuri area. The Jain temple and Gauri Shankar temple are the two most important temples in old Delhi. Their shikhars are most prominently visible from a distance. The first one is contemporary to Shah Jahan’s time (mid 17^th century) and the second was built in 18^th century. Next stop was SBI building which has recently undergone restoration. This entire area would originally have been Begam Samroo’s estate. It is now called Bhagirath Place & is a very large market for electronic goods. Close by is the Central Baptist Church built just after 1857 uprising. On the opposite side are the famous jalebiwala and Dariba Kalan, the street known for its silver jewellery. Next was Sisganj gurudwara, the fountain chowk and Sunheri masjid. The fountain & sisganj gurudwara mark the place of martyrdom of Guru Teg Bahadur & 3 of his followers. Continue Reading This Post

It’s foggy & very cold but no let up on the traffic in old Delhi. We started the walk amidst blaring of horns and shouts of everybody who happened to be on the street. The Red Fort was only an outline in the winter fog. The Digamber Jain Lal mandir, which happens to be the oldest Jain temple in old Delhi & Gauri Shankar temple were to our left. Across the road as the shops selling flowers & other offering made to the temple including dhatura (a poisonous weed). This entire area right up to where the SBI building on Chandni Chowk is was the estate of Began Sumroo. It is now known by the name of Bhagirath place is one of the largest markets of duplicate electric goods. Continue Reading This Post