It was the morning of Delhi’s first monsoon showers…a welcome and much needed respite from Delhi’s summer. We were a bunch of 20 odd people who turned up for this heritage walk, excited by the prospect of exploring Delhi in the rains. Take a look at the pictures…we were conspicuous wandering around with our umbrellas and raincoats.

This heritage walk covers landmarks of the uprising of 1857. We began at Nicholson’s cemetery, near ISBT. This cemetery is named after a British officer, John Nicholson, who was instrumental in recapture of Delhi by the British. He was fatally wounded during the storming of Lahori gate and was buried here. He led a force of British, Pathan and Punjabi troops and his leadership skills were legendary. He was greatly revered by his troops. It is said that at his funeral, his men threw themselves on the ground and wept. They refused to fight any more and left for the hills from where they had come, picking up flowers from their beloved general’s grave. Continue Reading This Post

This heritage walk covers the modern neighbourhood of Kashmiri Gate near the ISBT. Most of the sites here relate to first half of 18^th century and some specific events associated with the revolt of 1857. In the 17^th century this area was part of the Mughal capital of Shahjahanabad, what is today old Delhi. Kashmiri gate has mansions of some important personalities associated with the Mughal court like, Ali Mardan Khan, the noble who was instrumental in building canals which brought water to the city and Dara Shukoh, Shahjahan’s son. Later, the British started living in this neighbourhood. It is their buildings which mostly survive now.

We started the heritage walk from Nicholson’s cemetery. John Nicholson was a British general, instrumental in breaching the defenses of rebels who were controlling Delhi, and in the process lost his life. The cemetery is named after him, but there are other important people buried here as well. Continue Reading This Post

Here are some of the pictures of heritage walk exploring Kashmiri gate and its neighbourhood. Most landmarks on this trail relate to the Uprising of 1857. We started from Nicholson’s cemetery. The cemetery is named after John Nicholson, the British commander who died in the fighting during siege of Delhi. Another prominent burial is that of Master Ramachandra of Delhi College fame. An Indian convert to Christianity, he was one of the foremost intellectuals of 19^th century. The city walls of Shahjahanabad, the Mughal capital, start almost immediately across the road from the Nicholson’s cemetery. Not much of it remains but some parts are still traceable alongside the Kashmiri gate. Kashmiri gate is one of the remaining gates of the city. The others are: Turkman, Ajmeri and Dilli gates. The breaching of this gate was crucial in turning the tide in favour of the British. The gate still bears the damage done during the fighting. There are large chunks missing in its façade, from impact of canon balls. Continue Reading This Post

This heritage trail covers sites associated with late-Mughal period and landmarks of the uprising of 1857. We began at Nicholson’s cemetery and spent some time sauntering around, looking at the interesting gravestones. Some are indeed beautifully carved. Besides Brigadier Gen. Nicholson’s, the cemetery also has Master Ramachandra’s grave. He is one of the most well known scholars associated with the Delhi College which is presently the Zakir Hussain College in Delhi University. Kashmiri gate, one of the most important landmarks of 1857 in Delhi, is easily missed by people in its neighbourhood. The area also has some city walls, parts of which are still visible around the ISBT. We passed the Lal Masjid, old Hindu college and old Stephen’s college while walking through the Bara bazaar in Kashmiri gate. The mass was over at St. James’ Church but the caretakers quite willingly reopened the church for us. There are several plaques on the church building naming martyrs of 1857. The churchyard also has graves of William Fraser, James Skinner and Skinner’s family burial ground. Next stop was the Dara Shikoh’s library and British Residency in the Indraprastha University campus. Just outside the campus is the telegraph memorial and remains of British magazine. Next to the GPO is Lothian Road cemetery which was closed. The view through the iron gates of the cemetery presented a picture of utter neglect. It is the earliest British cemetery in Delhi, and is presently in a very bad shape.

(posted by Rajesh Ranjan & Kanika Singh, team members, Delhi Heritage Walks)

1857 Uprising: Kashmiri Gate Heritage Walk

Nicholson’s Cemetery, near Kashmiri Gate ISBT, was the starting point of the walk. One is greeted by deafening noise of the traffic at the bus stand and the chattering of monkeys as one approaches the entrance. Both are a permanent feature. We looked at British officer John Nicholson’s grave and that of Master Ramchandra of Delhi College. Nicholson’ Cemetery is in a much better condition than the Lothian Road cemetery. The latter is completely neglected; never mind ASI’s notice proclaiming it to be a protected site. The boundary walls of the old city of Delhi, Shahjahanabad can be seen adjacent to the Kashmiri Gate metro station. Some restoration work seems to on at Kashmiri Gate itself. Continue Reading This Post