One of our most popular trails is the food walk in old Delhi. We decided to give everyone a refreshing start with old Delhi’s special-Kulfi! The fruit flavoured kuflis and later the stuffed one’s- matka, malai, pomegranate, apple, mango- there wasn’t a dearth of choice and we tasted all one by one. From a sweet beginning to something spicy – we turned our heads from Sitaram Bazaar to Kulle wala in Chawri Bazaar. It took us 15 mins. to cover a small distance of 300 meters, due to the usual market chaos! But all of it was worth it once everyone savored the stuffed kulle of tomato, potato, pineapple and apple filled with pomegranate, peas and a spicy filling! From mirchi to something cooler we moved a few galis ahead to find a secret passage leading to Jain Coffee House. There was unending variety of sandwiches coupled with shakes. We tried mango, paneer, chikoo, apple, pomegranate layered with butter and home-made jam. Continue Reading This Post

The neighbourhood of Kashmiri gate is always an exciting heritage trail. Sometimes our group wades through knee deep water. On other days the neighbourhood is enveloped in fog during chilly winter mornings! This Sunday was a bright sunny day and we began our heritage walk at Nicholson’s Cemetery. The grass is a little overgrown now but it is charming little patch of land. There are some interesting craved gravestones. These graves belong to both British and Indians many belonging to the year 1857. The cemetery is still in use. The grave of Brig. Gen. John Nicholson (who was called Nikhal Sen by his Indian soldiers) is well protected. Another important personality buried here is Master Ramachandra, who taught at the Delhi College.

Our walk then proceeds towards the old Delhi area, towards the city wall of Shahjahanabad. Kashmiri gate was one of the several gates in the capital city of the Mughals. Continue Reading This Post

The Chandni Chowk heritage walk was unusual this weekend…due to Independence day security measures the previous week, we held the walk in the following weekend, an in evening. We were always apprehensive of the notorious crowds and chaos of the bazaar!!!!!!!…still went ahead taking it as a challenge and also, to savour old Delhi in it’s true colors.

The city of Shahjahanabad was built in mid 17th century with Red fort as the king’s palace and Chandni Chowk laid specially for Shah Jahan’s daughter, Jahanara, who was very fond of jewellery! There were also gardens laid in her name in the centre of baazar where currently the Town Hall and Old Delhi Railway Station stand…It’s the month of Ramzan, and we were close to the time of iftaar as we passed by several food shops filled with people… Parathewali gali, pakoras all along the way, sweets of shapes and sizes, dates…

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This heritage walk covers the modern neighbourhood of Kashmiri Gate near ISBT. Most of the sites here relate to first half of 19^th century and some specific events associated with the revolt of 1857. In the 17^th century this area was part of the Mughal capital of Shahjahanabad, what is today old Delhi. Kashmiri gate has mansions of some important personalities associated with the Mughal court like, Ali Mardan Khan, the noble who was instrumental in building canals which brought water to the city and Dara Shukoh, Shahjahan’s son. Later, the British started living in this neighbourhood. It is their buildings which mostly survive now.

We started the heritage walk from Nicholson’s cemetery. John Nicholson was a British general, instrumental in breaching the defenses of rebels who were controlling Delhi, and in the process lost his life. Continue Reading This Post

(pics by Chhavi Sharma & Ridhima Bahl, a regular at our heritage walks)

Doing what we’re passionate about and love the most comes with ease! Shahjahanabad is love and Delhi Heritage Walks a passion. 🙂

A cloudy day with waves of chilly wind and 12 of us gathered to take a walk on the historic lane of Chandni Chowk. Chandni Chowk was built as a main commercial lane after the establishment of Shahjahanabad city which is also known now as the walled city or purani Dilli/old Delhi

This beautiful city and its surroundings were destroyed more than once: in 1739 when Nadir Shah came, in 1857-Indians rebelled against the then British rising in power. The city hence developed socio-economically depending on political powers so was development seen in architecture. The Digamber Jain Lal Mandir and Gauri Shankar temple both came up while the Mughals were at the Red Fort, but the elaborate structures we see today are relatively recent phenomenon. Continue Reading This Post